A Guide to Positano
Ever since I can remember it has been a dream of mine to visit this picturesque village on the Italian coast, and I probably looked at EVERY picture on EVERY travel blog I could find online, wishing my dream would one day come true. Well, it’s been two months since The Husband and I finally visited Positano, and I just can’t stop thinking off all the breathtaking views and amazing experiences we had. As John Steinbeck once described Positano in Harper’s Bazaar:
“It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”
Yup, I agree! It’s one of the most memorable and magical experience I’ve had in my entire life. The narrow streets adorned with Bougainvillea, the rows of colorful houses decorating the dramatic cliffs, the panoramic ocean views, the pebble-stone beaches… It’s heaven on earth!
We spent three days there, and explored every beautiful corner of this colorful village. I’ve put together this guide to give you some ideas of the top things to see and do, where you can eat and possible places to stay.
HOW TO GET THERE
It’s not easy to get to Positano, but the payoff is definitely worth it! The nearest international airport is in Naples, so your best option would be flying into Naples and taking the local Circumvesuviana train from the train station on Corso Garibaldi, which runs about every 20 minutes. The train will take you to Sorrento (It’s about an hour’s train ride) from where you can take the SITA bus (which stop is right outside the station.) The bus takes you on a scenic 40-minute ride over the cliffs of the Amalfi and straight to Positano. This is the most affordable option to get there, but it’s a very twisty ride over the high and winding cliffs, and people tend to get car sick on this route... So, if you’re not quite prepared for the stomach-turning ride, you could opt for a taxi which would set you back about 75 euros.
WHERE TO STAY
Finding accommodation in Positano in peak season is not very easy, as it’s almost always sold out and the prices are sky high. Luckily it’s a (very) small town, and whether you stay at the top or the bottom of the hills, you’ll be in walking distance from everything, and you are surrounded by amazing views throughout the town. After much research and a lot of luck, I found this gorgeous (and pink!) family-run guest house situated high up on the hills of Positano, offering postcard-perfect views of the sea and colorful houses. Florida Residence offers a free shuttle, a DELICIOUS Italian breakfast buffet every morning, and each room has a beautiful tiled terrace where you can lounge and admire the magical views.
WHERE TO EAT
I LOVE Italian food, and there’s no better place to enjoy fresh seafood and homemade pastas than on the Amalfi Coast. An absolute MUST when in Positano is La Sponda , a Michelin-star restaurant in the iconic Le Sirenuse Hotel , which is also known as one of the most beautiful and most romantic restaurants in the world. Lunch is served on their gorgeous terrace, overlooking the main beach of Positano, and dinner inside a candle-lit room surrounded by vine-covered walls. This was truly like something straight from a magazine, and I cannot imagine a more beautiful location to enjoy lunch or a romantic dinner at. To make a reservation you can book online here, and remember to book early as they're usually fully booked months in advance.
For delicious pizza and pastas (that are also not too overpriced) I can highly recommend Ristorante II Fornillo; a beautiful and romantic restaurant located high up on the cliffs of Positano, serving a range of hearty Italian dishes and delicious cocktails and wine.
For sundowners I can’t imagine a more magnificent spot than Il Capitano, which has front-row seats to Positano’s beautiful cliffside village. The tiled terrace boasts with panoramic views of the Amalfi Coast, and watching the sunset here is nothing short of magical.
Another can’t miss spot is Da Teresa, a family-run restaurant located on Santa Cruce beach, just a short boat ride away from the town of Amalfi. We had lunch here when on a boat excursion, and must say it was one of the highlights of our trip. The freshest, off the boat seafood is served, and the views are spectacular.
One simply can’t go to Positano without trying their absolutely delicious and refreshing Lemon Sorbet. It’s not hard to find in Positano, but if you’re looking for frozen lemon sorbet served INSIDE a lemon, head to Ristorante Covo Dei Saraceni. Otherwise, grab some sorbet at this adorable food cart in town.
WHAT TO DO
Positano’s beaches are truly breathtaking and are literally what dreams are made of. The main beach is Spiaggia Grande, and it's the most glamorous of all the beaches here (You might even spot a celebrity or two!) Colorful rows of umbrellas and sun chairs fill this pebble stone beach on the Amalfi Coast and people flock here during summer. A sun chair and umbrella will set you back 25 euros (Expensive, I know..) but it’s totally worth it and you can lounge here for the whole day.
If you’re looking for a beach that is less touristy and away from the crowds, head to the serene and quiet Fornillio Beach, hidden between the cliffs and the sea. It can be reached via a romantic walk down the steep steps to the bottom of the cliffside, and you’ll be spoiled with breathtaking views along the way.
There’s no better way to explore the outskirts of Positano and the Amalfi Coast than on a scooter. There are rental places all over town so it’s not hard to find, but the one we got our scooter from was conveniently located right across from where we stayed, at Florida Residence. It is about 75 euros, also including insurance.
Drive along the Amalfi Coast and stop at the first coastal town you'll see, Praiano, and cool down with some refreshing gelato or grab a bowl of delicious Italian pizza. Follow the winding road until you reach the village of Furore, where you’ll find the famous Furore Beach, hidden away between the cliffs of the Amalfi. Stop here and walk down the stairs to the beach to admire the view of Furore Fjord, one of the most stunning natural wonders of Italy.
We had a boat trip planned to the Amalfi the following day so we didn’t drive any further, but if you want to explore some more it’s very easy to reach both Amalfi and Ravello by scooter. Remember to stop along the way at the various viewpoints for some spectacular views of the ocean, secluded beaches and other-worldly cliffs.
Just as mesmerizing as driving along the Almalfi Coast, is strolling around the narrow streets of Positano that is lined with clothing boutiques, ceramic stores and colorful souvenir shops and restaurants. The postcard-perfect streets will have you shopping (and snapping!) away all day long, and here you will find everything from the most beautiful white linen dresses, custom-made leather sandals, and a range of lemon souvenirs such as soaps, candy and liqueurs.
Closer to the main beach, and right in the center of Positano, you will find the enchanting Church of Santa Maria, which is located in Flavio Gioa Square. This photo-worthy square is surrounded by peachy pink walls and hotels, and offers some amazing views of the turquoise blue ocean.
One of the absolute highlights of our trip, and one of our most memorable experiences to date, was a boat excursion on the Amalfi Coast. We booked a small-group tour with Blue Star Positano, which took us out to sea for an entire day of sunbathing, snorkeling, swimming in caves and... free-flowing Prosecco! We passed Furore Fjord and also stopped by Emerald Grotto, before heading to the town of Amalfi for a bit of exploring.
This wonderful boat trip ended with a fresh seafood meal at a family-run restaurant, Da Teresa, on the secluded beach Sunta Croce, followed by some more swimming and Limoncello. Seeing the coast from the water was pure magic, and I can't recommend this boat trip enough. It was a day I will never forget!
Our 3 days in Positano was truly a once in a lifetime experience that I will cherish forever, and I highly recommend you visit if you ever have the chance!
If you have any more questions or need help in planning your itinerary, please feel free to send us an email or comment below. We are always happy to help! Also remember to check out my list of 11 Things to Pack for a Mediterranean Vacation before you embark on your Italian adventure. Happy Travels!
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